#30 amp 220 plug install
#30 amp 220 plug update

I bought the 'King 5000-Watt Electric Garage Heater with Thermostat' and the 4 wire dryer cord for just around $200.00 and was able to save at least that much on labor by doing the work myself. The white cord wire I capped with a wire nut and a wrap of electrical tape after cutting the copper flush with the wire's insulation and tucked it safely out of the way. The black plug wire went to the heater's L1 and the red wire went to the L2 lug. The green plug wire I tied to the heater's internal ground wire with a wire nut. The dryer cord even came with a metal clamp used to secure the wire to the rear panel of the heater. IEC 60309 (6h) 30A/32A-220/250V (2P+E) SPLASHPROOF (IP44) IN-LINE CONNECTOR, UNIVERSAL APPROVALS. The heater is made to be wired directly so any 220 volt cord or plug type can be used as long as the wire is 10 gauge or sized to handle the 22 amp load. I'm happy to say I've got a heated garage brew room now and it really feels good doing stuff out there without having to be all bundled up. The store had only one 220 volt 5,000 watt wall mounted heater left, it was on display and I was able to buy it for 10% off. I ended up buying a 4 wire electric dryer cord that is compatible with my existing 220 volt wall outlet.

#30 amp 220 plug update

Finally, screw the cover back in place and switch the main power back on.Just wanted to provide my latest update since yesterday. Remove the knockout panels that line up with the new breaker on the faceplate of your circuit box. Wrap the ends of the white and green wires around separate screws on the grounding bar in your circuit box and secure them in place by tightening the screws.

#30 amp 220 plug install

Install a 30-amp double-pole breaker on the circuit, then push the ends of the red and black wires into the ports on the breaker. Attach a cable clamp to the hole and thread the wires through it. Remove the front panel from the circuit box and punch out the pre-cut knockout on the side of the box. Strip the outer coating off of the last 1-2 feet (30-61 cm) of the end of the cable that will attach to the circuit box, then strip ½ inch (1.3 cm) of insulation off of the ends of each of the wires. Push the wires and outlet into the outlet box and secure them in place with screws, then screw on the outlet faceplate. Secure the black and red wires into the two unlabeled slots. Feed the end of the white wire into the slot with the neutral screw on the back of the outlet, and the green wire into the slot with the ground screw. Preferably, you would take a voltage reading at the outlet, just to be absolutely certain. You may also find a voltage rating stamped on the plug or the outlet. Use a wire stripper to remove 1 foot (30 cm) of the coating on the outside of the cable to expose the wires inside, then strip ½ inch (1.3 cm) of the insulation off the end of each wire. The easiest way to determine the voltage without a meter is to look at the breaker to see whether it is a single pole or a double pole breaker.

Push the outlet box into the hole and screw it in securely, then pull about 1 foot (30 cm) of the cable out through the hole in the box. Use a fish tape to thread the cable through the wall between the hole you made for the outlet box and the hole you made near the circuit breaker. Run a rigid metal electrical conduit from the side of the breaker box to the hole you drilled and attach it to the wall with conduit straps every 1-2 feet (30-61 cm). Drill a hole in the wall near the circuit breaker box that’s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider than the diameter of the cable. Measure the shortest route between the outlet box and your circuit breaker, then cut a 10/4 cable so that it’s 2-3 feet (61-91 cm) longer than the distance you measured.

Next, use a drywall saw to cut out a hole in the right size and shape for the outlet box you want to install. To wire a 220V outlet, first switch off power at the main circuit breaker.